![]() It just has a rather long delay between when it is complete and when it can be painted. If you wanted to, you could do the repairs with the original lime and horsehair plaster. And thanks for the feedback on slipcovers tan it will be. I will definitely be whitewashing (probably with some type of diluted oil paint, to be sure it sticks). Flo, you are right, the varnish is on the logs, although upstairs the varnish is on both the logs and on old paint on the chinking, so now both logs and chinking are bilious yellow. That chinking is beautiful, even though it is fairly well covered with whitewash. Have another log house that has its original chinking, red clay in one room and yellow-tan in another, from different batches of earth taken from the land. grey cement chinking applied over the original mud/clay/horsehair chinking I just want to cut down on the evidence of abuse, and the question is would it be better to apply a light, semi-transparent wash to both logs and cement chinking, or just to the chinking? The grey cement is too ugly for words the varnish doesn't look right, but isn't horrible. Fortunately the varnish in the living room hasn't turned yellow as it has in the sleeping loft above.) 3. varnish on the logs (original logs were whitewashed, then covered in lath and plaster, then the lath/plaster was removed, the whitewash was removed by a rotary sander, and then varnished in clear varnish. rotary sander (probably nothing can be done about those marks) 2. What I don't like is that the walls have been abused by: 1. Oh dear, I wasn't clear at all in my question about the walls (edited out too much background info as there was some bug in Houzz that kept telling me I had too many characters in the post.) I love hand hewn logs, so I won't be covering up the logs. Left a hard, durable coat, but was never as easy to do as the manufacturer's directions implied. This was a fiberglass cloth applied to the wall and then impregnated with resin. There used to be a product called Nuwall - not sure if it's still on the market. Plastering is a highly skilled trade that takes years to master. Using actual plaster is not a DIY project. The trouble with using joint compound is that it does not provide a hard surface like finish plaster, so it is prone to damage. After that, it's layers of joint compound sanded and smoothed between coats, followed by primer and paint. This has an adhesive on one side so it can be applied to the wall like wall paper. Fiberglass mesh comes in 3 to 4 foot wide rolls. Areas of crumbling plaster need to be removed back to sound areas,įinishing the whole wall smoothly is not easy. Smaller holes can be filled with joint compound. In places where sizable areas of plaster are missing right down to the wooden lath, pieces of sheet rock cut to fit and attached to the lathing with drywall screws is probably the easiest first step. If you intend to undertake the restoration yourself, be prepared for a difficult and time consuming task. The intention was that the walls would always be papered. It was common in houses of this vintage to not have a finish plaster coat.
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